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EYEGLASS CASES
Sherry Titzer - http://www.atimetostitch.com
Click
here to view the design sets
Printing instructions: Click
here
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Supplies:
Fabric (starch your fabric until it
is nice and crisp first, it's easier to trim when stiff)
Pellon Stitch 'n tear (tear away) stabilizer (for pockets)
Vilene or Aqua Magic wash away stabilizer (for base of eyeglass case)
Pellon Thermolam batting (or iron on fleece batting or any brand of thicker batting)
Embroidery Thread (Sulky thread used in instructions and on all sample
designs)
Scotch tape and temporary adhesive spray |
| These
eye glass cases are made completely in the hoop. They can be made as a
single eyeglass holder or a double eyeglass holder. To make a double glass
holder just make two pockets following the instructions written below. |
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| 1. Hoop 1
piece of Pellon
Stitch 'n Tear and stitch the first color directly onto the
stabilizer. (No fabric yet) |
2. Place one
piece of fabric over the outline just sewn. Use temporary spray
adhesive to keep it in place. |
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| 3. Stitch the
next color in the design - this tacks the fabric down to the stabilizer.
Stitch the rest design in the center of the pocket following the color
order in the text file. |
4. After the
center pocket design is stitched, remove
hoop & spray another piece of fabric with temporary adhesive spray and
center it over the outline on the back side of the hoop. Place hoop back
on machine. |
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| 5. The next
color in the design stitches the outline again to tack the piece of fabric
under the hoop down. |
6. Remove
hoop & trim both pieces of fabric close to the stitches at the top of
the pocket. Trim away the stabilizer leaving a 1/2" opening at the
top. (don't trim anything else) |
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| 7. Flip the hoop over
to the back side. Place wash away stabilizer 2" x 5" over the
opening. Use spray adhesive or scotch tape to keep in place. |
8. Place hoop back
on machine. The next color in the design stitches the satin stitch
edge along the top of the pocket to cover the raw edge of the fabric. |
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| 9. Remove
hoop and trim away the wash away stabilizer from around the satin
stitching. Trim at least 1/16" away from the stitches so you
don't accidentally cut into them. |
10. With a straight edge
ruler & rotary cutter, trim the sides & bottom of design close to
the stitches. Run a warm wet rag along the top satin stitches to dissolve
the rest of the wash away stabilizer. |
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| 11. If you
are making a double eyeglass holder, make another pocket exactly like the
one you just made. |
12. Open the
"eyeglass base" file, hoop vilene wash away stabilizer in the
hoop & stitch the 1st color in the design. |
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| 13. Place 1
piece of fabric over 1 piece of thermaloam and center them over the
outline just sewn. |
14. Flip hoop
over on back side & place another piece of fabric centered over
outline. Put hoop back on machine. |
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| 15. The next
color in the design stitches the outline again to secure the fabric on
both sides of the hoop. |
16. Remove
hoop and trim the fabric and thermaloam close to the stitches on both
sides of the hoop. |
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| 17. This
picture shows how the fabric has been trimmed close to the stitches.
The outer rectangle sewn around the design is there to help you with the
pocket placement. |
18. Place
pocket over the outer outline keeping it even with the sides &
bottom. Scotch tape the pocket in place. Flip hoop over, tape
the 2nd pocket down too. |
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19. This
picture shows how I taped the pockets in place.
Place hoop back on machine. |
20. The next
color in the design tacks the pockets down on both sides of the hoop. |
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| 21. Remove
hoop & trim the excess pocket fabric close to the stitches on both
sides of the hoop. Place hoop back on machine. |
22. The last
color stitches the final satin outline around the eyeglass holder to cover
the raw edges of the fabric. |
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| 23. Tip: As
the satin stitch edge comes down the right side towards the right edge of
pocket you may need to stop your machine to tuck the pocket under the foot
if the tape didn't hold it down well enough to clear the foot. |
24. When
finished, remove hoop and flip over on back side. Trim the case from
the wash away stabilizer keeping at least 1/16" from the
stitches. Run a warm wet rag along the edge to dissolve the rest of
the stabilizer. |

Here
is the finished eyeglass case with a pocket on each side!
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| Note:
Some of the eyeglass cases have pockets that meet at the same point on
each side. The case used above had an angled top so that the pockets
did not meet at the same spot on the sides but were staggered. For
the pockets that meet at the same point, I do not recommend using the
embroidered design on both sides of the case because the satin stitched
top edge will meet at the same point on the sides and is really too thick
to stitch out nicely. If you want to make make a double eyeglass holder
just cut two pieces of fabric 4 1/2" x 6 1/2" with wrong sides
together and stitch a 1/2" seam across the top edge. Then just turn
the fabric to the right side & top stitch along the folded edge. Spray
in between the two pieces with temporary adhesive and smooth flat so it
acts as one piece. |

Front |

Back |

Front |

Back |
| For
pockets that meet at the same point on (or height) along the sides, it is
better to use a plain pocket on the back. Reason: When the two
embroidered pockets meet at the edge, the satin stitching on the top of
the pockets becomes too thick at the sides to stitch nicely. |
Pockets
that have angled tops do not meet at the same point on the sides.
Since the top edge is stitches at an angle, the right side is lower than the
left. It is fine to use the embroidered pockets on both sides when the
top of the pocket does not meet at the same point along the sides. |